![]() Owning the building gives him breathing room to operate Eats the way he wants. Hatcher bemoans the developments going up around the restaurant and wishes the city would focus on fixing existing infrastructure first before piling on new developments. That Eats still exists at all on Ponce today comes down to the fact that owner Bob Hatcher ended up purchasing the building in 1998. It remains a restaurant staple in Atlanta serving uncomplicated, affordable food in an atmosphere which can only be described as charmingly old school. But Eats hearkens back to a time when the city had some semblance of local character and wasn’t chock-full of bland mixed-use complexes dotting the landscape. Sometimes the decades-old businesses occupying those buildings are factored into future plans for these properties. Opened in 1993, Eats is a hold-out in Atlanta, a city where developers are known for snatching up properties at lightening speed, often razing historic or cherished buildings. As a modest, single-story building with stucco painted avocado green, Eats is squat in stature sitting in the shadow of Ponce City Market across the street and at least two construction sites which will eventually tower over the restaurant in the coming year. These restaurants serve as the foundation of the Atlanta dining scene, and continue to stand the test of time.Įats stands out among a sea of construction along Ponce de Leon Avenue where the borders of Midtown, Old Fourth Ward, and Virginia-Highland meet near the Eastside Beltline. The restaurants featured are a mix of longtime familiar favorites and less well-known venerable establishments serving a wide variety of cuisines and communities in Atlanta and the surrounding metro area. I settled on using a mixture of lime zest and juice to pack in flavor without turning my chicken tough.Eater is highlighting some of Atlanta ’s oldest restaurants and food institutions through a series of photo essays, profiles, and personal stories. I tried making a completely acid-free marinade, but missed the brightness it brought. Modern chicken is pretty darn tender to begin with, so there's no real need for acid-based tenderization techniques. Used with a heavy hand, it can denature meat proteins, causing them to turn chalky or dry, even before you've started cooking them. When used sparingly, it can balance flavors and mildly tenderize tough, connective tissue in the outer layers of a piece of meat. I tried adding sugar in various forms-plain sugar, orange juice concentrate, honey-and settled on brown sugar, which also adds a faint touch of bitterness. ![]() ![]() A touch of sugar also balances salt nicely. Sugar, when used in moderation, will help the meat brown better on the grill, creating strong smoky, charred flavors.In a side-by-side taste test, a marinade made with soy sauce instead of straight-up salt actually made my chicken taste meatier. Not only does the soy sauce add salt, but it's also a strongly concentrated form of glutamates, the molecules responsible for triggering our sense of savoriness. Surprisingly, in Jamaica, it's often added in the form of soy sauce. It's one of the few ingredients that penetrate and season meat past the outermost layer. ![]() The oil will help spread these flavors evenly across the surface of the meat, as well as lubricating and protecting the meat when it first hits the grill. ![]() Many aromatic compounds, such as those found in garlic, are soluble in oil but not in water.
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